From top to bottom: A large rubber bumper, then the bearing that goes under the bumper, the dust cover, the bump stop, and the strut itself. The strut has 2 points of contact, the strut mount/cup and the tower. You will want to pick up the TT/R32 LCA rear bushing, a LCA front bushing, ball joints (come in left and rear, pick up a pair), and sway bar bushing.Ģ. Additionally on the sway bar is the sway bar bushing, this will be replaced too. Its easy to get to, so replace as needed. The sway bar end link on my car was in good condition and the bushings weren't in need of replacing, in fact, if you look at suspension refresh kits you won't see bushings or end links in them. The front and rear LCA bushings, the ball joint, and the sway bar end link. The lower control arm which has 4 points of contact. Something with a cut off wheel isn't a bad idea, as well as something to grind down your own tools.įor the front end I think of it as 3 major units you'll be looking at.ġ. Two large adjustable wrenches for when you're lazyĪ large pipe wrench (for that rusted together tie rod) Rubber safe water based lubricant for the bushings (off brand KY jelly, dish soap, etc)ĩ" or larger needle nose locking jaw plier (eg, vise-grip)ġ8mm open wrench (I didn't have one, found a 19mm worked okay)ġ7mm offset wrench (may be needed for the shocks)ġ6mm offset wrench (probably needed for the OEM shocks)ģ0mm triple square socket (available from lowes. make two side by side notches then pry out the small piece with a screwdriver. Have a tool for removing the nuts from the top of the struts (in my case I used a 13/16" spark plug socket chopped down with a cut off disc. Make shims for the spring compressor (3" long pieces of 3/4" copper pipe in my case) Should fit over the handle of your 1/2" socket wrench or breaker bar. Rent a ball joint tool (should come with 3 ring spacers that are great for pressing the LCA bushings in and out)
Rent a tie rod tool (May in fact, not be useful, as the one I rented didn't fit the inner tie rods)
#MK4 JETTA SUSPENSION PARTS MANUALS#
Automatics are all rubber, manuals are rubber with a metal flange. Inner CV boot is different for manuals and automatics. Outer CV boot is the same for manuals and automatics. Inspect CV boots because these are easy to do at the same time. Springs (Wagon springs are different from sedan, coupe, or hatch) Its not a bad idea to pick up the entire tie rod assembly and replace the inner tie rod only if necessary) As you may not know whether you can separate the outer tie rods from the inners you might have to replace the entire tie rod assembly. Inner tie rods (unlikely to go bad, especially if the dust cover is intact which it probably is. Unlikely to need replacing, you should inspect beforehand and make a judgement call. Shocks (Wagon has longer shocks than sedan, coupe, or hatch since it has stronger rear springs) Outer Tie Rods (your inners are probably fine if the dust cover is intact, your outers have boots that will crack. The 21mm sway bar bushing was updated to use the larger bracket so you will need two bushings and brackets for a 21mm sway bar.
Later models were updated to 23mm sway bars and a larger bracket. Sway Bar Bushing (early models had 21 mm sway bars. Lower control arm front bushing (slow to wear, but easy to change when you're doing the rear, stock is ok)īall joint (two separate ones for right and left) Lower control arm rear bushing (get the TT version, or polyurethane if you're into that) It started making a clunk on right hand turns so I decided it was time to deal with it. I have an 03 Wagon with 390,000 miles on it with, AFAIK, the original suspension. Suspension Refresh on a Mk4 Jetta, Golf, New Beetle (or Audi TT) This isn't a how-to per se, but a tips post for someone who can read all the DIYs already out there and wants to do it all at the same time. I read a bunch of individual how-tos for various parts of this job, but doing it all at the same time lets certain things go a bit faster.
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